The Tontons Flingueurs (Crooks in Clover) would have feasted! Regional recipes and a family atmosphere for lovers of traditional French cuisine.

The history. This name is well known in the Marais. Nénesse is the nickname used by the former owner Ernest. He founded the café bistro in 1965 which has since become an unavoidable rendezvous for neigh-bourhood residents and artisans. So, when Roger and Chantal Leplu took the reins in 1998, it was their love of good food and traditional recipes that continued to concoct this generous French cui-sine.

The decor.We find ourselves in a convivial atmosphere where time stopped in the sixties. A black and white checkered floor, bistro tables and a wooden bar, Vichy style red and white table mats... Here, you’ll find a quiet and intimate table and if it’s crowded, like Thursday lunch, the day of home-made fries, you’ll strike up a conversation with your neighbour. In the evening, the welcome is equally friendly and guests dine on white cloth tablecloths

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The main characters.For Roger, cooking has been a passion since he was 14 years old. After Prunier and the Grand Véfour, he was the chef at Pierre at the Palais-Royal. Accompanied by his wife Chantal and their son Cyril, he always works with the same energy. Whether for lunch or evening meals, all the dish-es are homemade and prepared according to traditional recipes with carefully selected products (Charolais meat, vegetables and seasonal fruits).

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The menu.For lunch, a single prix-fix menu is featured on the slate chalkboard with a choice of appetizers, main dishes (meat or fish) and traditional desserts. Leeks in a vinaigrette, vegetable soup, chicken in a duxelle sauce or haddock in a lobster sauce… something for every taste and desire. It is also safe to bet that dessert lovers will find something amongst the chocolate profiteroles, lemon tart or Paris Brest… In the evening, the choice is a la carte: regional recipes (cassolette of snails, Lyonnais quenelles), gastronomic classics (boeuf a la ficelle, veal sweetbreads with candied shallots) ... As for the calf's head with gribiche sauce and the delicate hot apple or raspberry tartes, we come here just for them.

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A Note. Chez Nénesse the restaurant fills up quickly, many guests are regulars and make reservations.

Chez Nénesse 30, rue de Poitou / 17, rue de Saintonge, 75003 Paris. Reservations: 01 42 78 46 49. Closed on weekends and public holidays.